Top Eight: Saint-Lazare Area Gems

Top Eight

Aug 1

A niche list for the curious about the generally unaesthetic and touristy area directly around the major train station Saint-Lazare in the 9th arrondissement. It is populated by mostly offices, the legendary department stores Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, and chain store brands. Opéra Garnier is nearby, as well, with the Grand Boulevard area adjacent. This whole area can feel loud, overly busy, and frankly, not super local leaving you thinking “Does anyone actually live or eat here?” If you are staying at the Hilton Opéra that is almost attached to the train station itself, this list is definitely for you! I decided to be on par with the usual advice and realize the best spots are always a 5-10min walk from the train station itself.

We will look closely and discover which side streets to take and what is worth going to so you can experience this area like a local! I’ve spent quite a lot of time here over the years and scouted many spots - let’s dive in.

La Petite Bleue

I love this fresh brunch-food all day spot right near Opéra. It’s on a street with generally mediocre or tired brasseries, but this is a bright spot! Opens very early by Parisian standards at 7:30 so it is a great option if you are about to do an early train ride north from Saint-Lazare, a museum tour, etc. There’s no reservations and weekends can get busy, so plan accordingly.

*Love this shot I got from the bus, no less!*

*An iced coffee and a mess of an avo toast - yes, please!*

Spiced

A great new coffee spot recommended to me by a local in the area; Ona of @frenchsheis. This is a woman owned spot and the drinks are lovely - my favorites are the house iced tea or a classic cappuccino. It is laptop friendly in the AM and is a welcome spot between Madeleine and Saint Lazare on the little side street, Rue Vignon.

Argile

I love this beautiful little restaurant on a quieter street just above Saint Lazare on Rue Milan. Meaning “clay” in French, the kitchen and decor reflects this in a literal and a color sense. Per usual, I had the lunch formule for 25 euro plus a glass of white on the terrace, bien sûr. The plating is lovely and the ambiance on a warm summer day was 10/10 - even the construction of the historic building across the street was quiet during the lunch hours. The chef (Romain Lamontagne) already has something special here - I sense a Michelin mention at some point in the near future!

Mûre

A morning spot of dreams with pastries by resident favorite Leonie and really lovely coffee; I enjoy coming here in the AMs as it is laptop friendly. It is also on the bigger side with ample seating so a group meeting is possible!

Hubo

Such an amazing sandwich spot just around the backside of Saint Lazare on Rue de Londres. Love the bright orange branding and the owner is super nice - I had the signature pork sandwich and it’s to die for. They are quite big, so easily shareable. Ditch the train station food - this would be a great train snack for a trip up to Giverny or Rouen!

Les Hirondelles

This is also on Rue de Londres and Amsterdam; it has recently been redone top to bottom and very cute. Les Hirondelles is a traditional bistro with continuous service and solid food. It is more elevated than others in the area and popular with locals - I love to people watch here in the afternoon with a spritz or the early AM with a cappuccino.

*Beautiful and classic interior recently redone!*

Land & Monkeys

A great little bakery on Rue Amsterdam up the hill from Saint Lazare - this gem is a small chain and has really nice pastries and the baguette tradition is excellent. Their claim to fame? It is the first patisserie in France to be 100% vegetable origin and every ingredient is sourced in France or from French farms. While I don’t need my pastries to be vegan, it’s a great option for those who want it!

*I love all the classics here: croissants, pain au chocolat, baguettes!*

Cuvée Noire

I have been a frequent customer here for years now, and this is their original location - just a little take-away window and step-in place on Rue Saint Lazare down from the train station. The coffee is excellent and smooth and it is the only spot in Paris I will have an iced blueberry matcha as that’s typically not my thing, but it’s so so good here!